September 19, 2023
San Pietro in Cariano, Italy
Dear Wine Lover,
25 years ago I ripped my father’s vines out of the ground. He passed away unexpectedly and I became responsible for my family’s vineyards.
My father Angelo Ugolini was a grape grower in the Valpolicella of Northern Italy. He used to sell his grapes to the big wine houses to make Amarone, Ripasso, and the other Valpolicella wines.
I decided it was time for the family to make its own wine. But we had some challenges. My father’s vines were cultivated the industrial way. We used synthetic chemicals to control the vineyard.
Because of poor farming, the vine roots were only a few centimeters below ground. This was bad because the soil temperatures near the ground are not cold enough to withstand disease. And they weren’t deep enough to create quality grapes for fine wine.
I felt horrible tearing up my father’s vines after he left us. All the work he put into it. It’s sad to say but his methods were doing damage to our vines and land.
He wasn’t alone. Everyone in the region was doing the same thing.
I began reading 19th century texts about vineyard cultivation. The growers already knew everything back then and passed the knowledge down to us. The problem is that we as humans are always seeking new ways to innovate. And sometimes for the worse.
Homeopathic Vineyards Are Now Called Organic
So I decided to follow the natural homeopathic style of cultivation.
The first step was tearing out the vines and starting from scratch. It was a tough call because we couldn’t make wine for 14 years. Everyone in the region thought I was crazy. But I was the first producer to go “organic” in 1996. Some called me the first “terroirist” in the Valpolicella.
We became spectators in the vineyard instead of interventionists. I sat in the vineyard all day observing what was going on. I kept a journal for my records.
We introduced earthworms to the vineyards. Earthworms are the pioneers of soil. They dig a pathway for the roots to follow them deep into the soils.
The deeper the vine, the deeper the wine.
I decided to create a cru system. Where each vineyard produced its own single vineyard wine. We have 5 different wines with different terrains and microclimates. That way the wine expresses charisma and detail.
After many years of hard work and sacrifice our family was able to purchase a 12th century building and restored it into a tasting space. It was likely built by the San Zeno Monks. In the medieval ages, monks were the most advanced winemakers. And they took quality to never-tasted-before levels.
We renamed the building Villa San Michele after the historical and spiritual protector of the Catholic Faith. And in our own little way, we the Ugolini family act as the physical protectors of The Valpolicella. To protect nature, the history, and the integrity of our land so future generations can enjoy special wines.
Valle Alta Amarone
I planted our first Amarone vines over 20 years ago in the Valle Alta vineyard. 2010 was our first single vineyard vintage. And the wine sold out quickly. 2011 and 2012 were special years due to the climate. And so I decided to age those vintages for 10 years in our estate cellar.
Now that we’ve released Valle Alta 2011, I look back and say to myself “wow, it took 25 years of work and patience to make this wine.” From the first planting in 1996 to the release from the cellar in 2021.
Amarone is an evolutionary wine. It can age and develop for decades in the bottle. For me it’s always been a tragedy watching other wineries releasing their Amarone’s too young. Most people never get to taste the magic of Amarone unless they age it in their own cellars.
So I decided to age the wine for you. So you don’t have to wait. So you can enjoy now and continue to enjoy while it’s aging. These wines are in the prime of their life and only now can you enjoy the evolution of Amarone.
If you’ll be in Italy someday, come give us a visit. Until then, please enjoy our wines. Many people say our wines make them feel like they’ve already been to our vineyards.
To your dreams,